Ethically Sourced Coffee: The Bright Side of the Bean
Coffee is one of the most beloved beverages worldwide, but behind every cup is a complex and often troubling story. While many consumers are drawn to the idea of "ethically sourced" coffee, the truth about how coffee is grown, processed, and traded is more complicated than it seems. In this post, I’ll take you on a journey to El Salvador, where I had the opportunity to see firsthand how coffee is processed on small farms, and where I learned about the stark reality many workers face, earning less than a dollar per day while large corporations profit from their labor.
A Trip to El Salvador: Witnessing Coffee’s Journey
Earlier this year, I took a trip to El Salvador, a country known for its rich coffee-growing history. Visiting several small, family-owned coffee farms, I had the chance to learn about the labor-intensive process of growing and harvesting coffee beans, from picking the cherries to drying and packaging the beans. It was a fascinating experience to see the deep care and attention to detail that goes into producing high-quality coffee.
However, the beauty of the process was quickly overshadowed by the harsh realities facing many of the workers who make it all possible. See below for an image of raw coffee beans drying.
The Hidden Cost of Coffee: Unethical Labor Practices
During my visit, I spoke to several workers on the farms about their wages and working conditions. What I learned was shocking. On many farms, workers are paid as little as $0.80 to $2.00 per day for a full day's labor. These workers, who often work from sunrise to sunset, perform grueling tasks such as hand-picking coffee cherries, sorting beans, and processing them. Despite the hard work involved, their compensation doesn’t reflect the value of the coffee they produce.
The price these workers are paid is a far cry from the profits these coffee farms make when they sell their beans to larger organizations. Coffee that is later marketed by international brands—like big global coffee chains and even "specialty" European coffee roasters—can fetch high prices on the global market. Yet the labor that goes into harvesting and processing these beans is undervalued and underpaid.
The Gap Between Farm-Level Wages and Big Business Profits
This disparity is not just a problem in El Salvador but is a pervasive issue throughout the coffee industry, especially with large-scale coffee farms that supply global coffee chains. Even though these companies may market their coffee as "fair trade" or "ethically sourced," the reality is that many workers still don’t see fair compensation. The value of the coffee beans often gets lost in the supply chain, with profits concentrated at the top levels of large corporations. While these companies often tout their "sustainability" and "ethics" in advertising, the workers who grow the beans are often the ones left behind.
In El Salvador, the coffee is sold in bulk to middlemen or exporters, who then sell it to roasters and coffee brands, including multinational corporations. By the time the coffee reaches your cup, the workers who grew and processed it may have been paid a fraction of what consumers are paying for a "premium" cup of coffee. Meanwhile, coffee chains and roasters mark up the price significantly, turning a substantial profit off the labor of those at the origin of the supply chain.
Quality and Sustainability: The Role of Non-Coffee in the Batch
Aside from labor issues, another factor that contributes to the price of coffee is the quality of the beans, which is determined by several factors during the growing and processing stages. One key element in the grading of coffee is the presence of "non-coffee" materials—anything that isn’t a coffee bean, such as stones, twigs, or imperfect cherries. The more non-coffee material in a batch, the lower the quality of the coffee and the less it’s worth on the market.
For the best-quality coffee, farms must carefully sort and process the beans to ensure that the batch contains as little non-coffee material as possible. This is labor-intensive work and requires a high level of skill. But in countries like El Salvador, where labor is cheap and often unregulated, workers are expected to perform these tasks under poor conditions and with little regard for their well-being.
Unfortunately, even with the best care, many of these small-scale farms face challenges in making a living wage. The competition from larger coffee plantations and the pressures of global markets make it difficult for these smaller producers to thrive, often leaving workers and their families struggling to make ends meet.
Moving Toward Ethical Coffee: What Can We Do?
As coffee consumers, it’s important to be aware of the ethical issues tied to coffee production. While many coffee brands market themselves as "fair trade" or "sustainable," it’s essential to look deeper into how these certifications are enforced and what they really mean for workers on the ground.
To support more ethical coffee practices, consider the following:
1. Look for Certified Fair Trade Coffee: Fair Trade certification ensures that farmers and workers receive a fair wage for their labor and that environmentally sustainable practices are being followed. However, not all certifications are equal, so research the specific standards of each certification.
2. Buy Directly from Farmers or Co-operatives: Some small-batch roasters and co-ops work directly with coffee producers, cutting out the middlemen and ensuring that more money goes directly to the farmers and workers.
3. Support Companies with Transparent Supply Chains: Choose coffee brands that are open about where their beans come from and how they support farmers and workers. Transparency in sourcing practices is a step toward holding companies accountable for ethical labor.
4. Advocate for Fairer Wages: Support policies that advocate for living wages for farmworkers and the promotion of ethical labor standards in the coffee industry. Consumer demand for ethically produced coffee can push companies to do better.
Conclusion: The Dark Side of Coffee and the Path Toward Change
Coffee is more than just a morning ritual—it’s a global commodity that’s grown and processed by hardworking individuals who are often underpaid and exploited. My visit to El Salvador opened my eyes to the stark contrast between the labor that goes into producing coffee and the profits reaped by large companies. While it’s easy to overlook these issues from the comfort of our coffee cups, it’s crucial to recognize the human cost of our daily brew.
By making informed choices, supporting fair trade initiatives, and holding companies accountable, we can help create a more ethical coffee industry that ensures fair wages for workers and sustainable practices for the future.
Have you ever thought about where your coffee comes from and how it’s produced? Share your thoughts in the comments below!